I’m not necessarily a big fan of eggplant, but I do like
what happens when you cook the living daylights out of it, as in certain Sri
Lankan and Moroccan recipes, so when I ran across a recipe by Deborah Madison
for Savory Eggplant “Jam” with Cumin and Coriander, I knew that I would like
it. It was, indeed, quite tasty, and I especially loved the sticky, silky
texture. Because eggplant doesn’t have much of its own flavor, I thought that
it might make a good foundation for a sweet, dessert-y treatment, so I started
to experiment.
The first attempt was a cinnamon walnut concoction that
turned out really well. It would be right at home rolled up inside some kind of
pastry. I added fenugreek for a touch of maple flavor, and it was even better.
The second stop was inspired by a dish from the Amalfi coast
of Italy which pairs breaded, fried eggplant with chocolate sauce. I added
cocoa powder and toasted, slivered almonds to the mashed eggplant matrix, and
was absolutely blown away by the natural affinity of these ingredients for each
other. It was a bit like chocolate pudding. After a night in the fridge, I was
even more blown away, as the texture had transformed into something more like
chocolate frosting.
The third and fourth variations were less successful, using
orange flower water in one, and raspberries in the other. They weren’t bad, but
it seems as though these delicate flavors were not bold enough to stand up to
the slight eggplant flavor. My (non-Primal) taster simply shook his head, “No”.
The fifth recipe was a revelation. I tried to recreate the
coconut pecan frosting that is typically spread on German chocolate cake.
Oh my.
Granted, if you give it to someone who eats German chocolate
cake every day, they will not be fooled. However, for someone who hasn’t eaten
sugar, eggs or dairy in several months, this is definitely a treat. I wouldn’t
recommend using it as a frosting, unless you’re willing to cook down several
pounds of eggplant to make enough to cover a (grain-free!) cake, but put it in
a little dish, call it dessert and prepare to smile. It would also be an
enjoyable breakfast for anyone who misses the creamy/chewy texture of steel-cut
oats.
Because sweetness varies between different brands of stevia, as with all desserts, start
small and add more in tiny increments until you reach your ideal sweetness
level.
Please note: Since eggplant is a nightshade, which can
trigger an inflammatory response in some people, I would keep this as an
occasional indulgence, for when you are really hankering for that very distinct
textural experience.
Makes about 1 1/2 cups
1 pound eggplant, purple or
white, slender or round
Sea salt
3 tablespoons coconut oil or ghee
Sea salt
3 tablespoons coconut oil or ghee
10 drops (or to taste) Stevita
brand stevia (if using a different brand, use to taste)
1½ tsp. alcohol-free vanilla extract
½ tsp. cinnamon
½ tsp ground fenugreek (optional)
¼ cup chopped walnuts
Water
½ cup coconut milk (optional)
Heat the oil in a large non-stick skillet. Add the eggplant
and cook over medium-high heat, turning occasionally, until well browned on
both sides, about 15 minutes. Add about 1/2 cup water, reduce the heat, and
mash the eggplant with a fork or spatula until it’s broken into a jam-like
consistency. This can take 15 – 30 minutes, depending on the eggplant. Add
walnuts. Add more water (or coconut milk, if using, up to ½ cup, then switching
back to water if necessary), as it cooks, to help break it down. Mash
occasionally.
The pan can be covered or uncovered, though leaving it
uncovered means that you’ll have to monitor it more closely, and add water more
frequently. You can uncover the pan and let the excess liquid cook off when the
eggplant is finally soft.
Remove from heat. Add the spices, vanilla and stevia. Mix
well. Mound in a shallow bowl or in individual dishes and serve warm, at room
temperature or chilled.
Coconut Pecan Variation
Make as above, but increase the (now mandatory) fenugreek to
¾ tsp. and omit the cinnamon. Substitute ½ cup chopped walnuts and ½ cup plus 2
Tbsp. shredded, unsweetened coconut for
the walnuts. For optimal results, do use the coconut milk option, and if you
are able to use ghee, it will result in a better, buttery flavor.
Chocolate Variation
Make as above, but omit spices.
With vanilla and stevia, add 2-4 Tbsp cocoa powder (2 if you are planning on
eating it warm, 4 if you are planning on eating it cold, or try 3 if you aren’t
sure) and ¼ cup toasted, slivered almonds. Here again, the coconut milk option
will give you a broader flavor and richer texture.